By Doug Pemberton

The Mediterranean, cradle of some of the world's greatest civilizations, is an area where myth and history often collide, sometimes leaving little distinction between the two. As the ferry that would take us from the island of Malta to the island of Gozo turned into the dock, her name became clearly visible, the Calypso. This is a name that connects the past with the present, a name as important to myth as it is to modern history.

In the epic Greek poem, The Odyssey, the hero, Odysseus undergoes a ten year journey full of misfortune and adventure in order to get home after the Trojan war. While on his travels he becomes shipwrecked on the island of Ogygia where he is 'entertained' for seven years by the sea nymph Calypso, daughter of Atlas. After this 'incarceration' Calypso offers Odysseus immortality if he agrees to spend eternity with her. He spurns her offer and returns to his wanderings.

Myth? Maybe, but today the island of Ogygia is generally accepted by scholars to be the island of Gozo, one of the five islands of Malta situated in the middle of the Mediterranean, sixty miles south of Sicily. It is the second largest of the islands and its significance to history goes far beyond sea nymphs and ancient kings. In 1948, another military man, a French naval officer named Jacques Cousteau, came to these islands and also found a seductive sea nymph. Cousteau came in search of a suitable ship from which he could conduct ocean research. On Gozo he found a 132 foot mine sweeper that had been built in Seattle during WWII and then sold to the Maltese government after the war, converted into a ferry and named (like the ferry we were about to board) the Calypso. Cousteau purchased the ship in 1950, and the rest is history.

Today Malta is one of the most popular tourism destinations in Europe. Its ideal climate, clear, warm waters, beautiful sandy beaches and picturesque scenery lure visitors year round. Bathed in sunshine, the islands are also steeped in a distinguished and tangible history that stretches back to the appearance of Neolithic farmers on the islands 7000 years ago. Since then, the islands of Malta have held strategic military and economic importance for Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Span iards, French and British, and each have left their mark on the architecture, history and culture of these islands.

Malta is a very popular European diving destination with over a dozen dive shops. Nearly all of the diving is done from shore and the 137 km coastline of Malta and the 43 km coastline of Gozo offer hundreds of interesting sites. Diving in Malta is "different" often involving swimming through tunnels and diving in small caves and caverns. In many areas it was necessary to enter the water in a protected area away from the surf and surge of the exposed coast and swim through tunnels to start the dive. At a site called the Inland Sea at Gozo, we entered a small saltwater lake surrounded on all sides by high cliffs and hills which completely concealed our proximity to the ocean. A 100 metre swim through a submerged tunnel finally brought us into the blue waters of the Mediterranean.

Waters around the island are clear with visibility commonly exceeding 30 metres. Water temperatures in September hovered around 22°C and my Oceaner 4mm, one piece suit kept me toasty.

Large fish are scarce in most areas but several varieties of smaller species including tompot blennies, colourful Mediterra nean parrot fish, rainbow wrasse, damselfish and schools of silvery, perch-like salemas were common. The odd juvenile grouper was also sighted and vigilant divers may spot the occasional small moray lurking among the kelp in the shallows. Walls are a palette of colourful invertebrate life which includes patches of red encrusting sponge, clumps of golden zooanthids and huge tufted tubeworms whose gills may exceed a foot in diameter. Shy Mediterranean octopus, which rarely exceed two feet in diameter when full grown, were also quite common and often found living in cracks in the wall or in obvious burrows on sandy bottoms. As in many warm water areas, there are also a few animals that divers must be wary of. Brightly coloured bristle worms that may reach a foot in length, while very photogenic, can inflict a painful sting if touched. Scorpionfish with their poisonous spines are common and often blend in with their background. They usually wait until the last second before darting away from a diver's settling hand. Sharks are said to be very rare but it is interesting to note that one of the largest great white sharks in history, measuring 23 feet 5 inches, was caught off Malta in 1987.

The islands of Malta are a microscopic place with a macroscopic history. They comprise a world of history, discovery and adventure both above and below the waves.

Malta Information

Getting there: The national airline Air Malta operates regularly scheduled flights out of 27 European cities. Major European airlines also offer service into Malta.

Electricity: 240 volts, single phase, 50 cycle. A converter is needed and a three pin British plug adaptor is also needed.

Currency: The Maltese lira is the national currency. Each lira is divided into 100 cents and each cent is divided into 10 mils. One Maltese lira is approximately equivalent to 2.75 U.S.

Water: Perfectly safe for drinking.

Language: Maltese is the official language but almost all Maltese also speak English.

Diving requirements: It is necessary for each certified diver to undergo a medical checkup before diving in Malta. These can be arranged by the dive shop or you can bring a recent medical certificate from your family doctor.

Climate: Very pleasant, dry and warm. Rainfall averages about 20 inches a year. Winter temperatures (November - April) average 58 degrees while summer temperatures (May - October average in the high 80s.

Reading: There are many useful books about Malta but one particularly good source of information on diving. The Maltese Islands Diving Guide by Ned Middleton, published by Miller Guides, ISBN 88-8095-271-4 contains detailed maps and diving information on many of the more popular diving areas. It also contains a handy guide to Maltese marine life and many excellent underwater pictures.

For more information: Malta National Tourist Office, Empire State Building, 350 Fifth Ave., Suite 4412, New York, NY 10118. (212) 695-9520, Fax (212) 695-8229. E-mail: office.us@tourism.org.mt Website: www.visitmalta.com