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Duncan Rock By Jett Britnell Pinnacle Diving in the fast lane. Veiled by a misty curtain of fog, Tatoosh Island loomed large in the distance as we prepared to dive the jagged summit of an exposed ocean pinnacle. Situated just a mile or two northwest of Tatoosh Island, Duncan Rock's massive peak is a sight to behold underwater. Speak to anyone who has had the opportunity to dive this seamount and their eyes will glaze over in wonderment at the mere mention of the place. We were diving just west of the 17-mile-wide mouth of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, in the territorial waters of the United States, off the northwest corner of the Olympic Peninsula. An enormous column of cold water flushes out of the Strait of Juan de Fuca where it mixes with the Pacific Ocean's nutrient-rich swells forming a 30-mile-wide undersea cauldron. While Duncan Rock does not quite break the surface, it is relatively easy to find if there is any surge or wave action present. 
Duncan Rock ascends skyward from a seafloor that lies approximately 250 to 300 feet below. During inclement weather, this site cannot be dived due to the formidable ocean swells and tidal currents that pummel the pinnacle. However, when weather and sea conditions are optimal, the currents and surge subside enough to permit safe explorations by experienced divers during the brief respite of a slack tide interval. Huge channels and tunnels crisscross through volcanic rock formations comprised of precipitous walls, cavernous canyons, yawning crevices and gigantic boulders. The seafloor is carpeted with white broken seashells. It seems every square inch of this stony terrain was encrusted by marine life. Plunging into the emerald sea, I kicked away from the dive skiff and descended quickly to the bottom. I was pumped to be finally diving here. For far too many years, I had to endure stories told by others about this fabled pinnacle. The only question on my mind was, "Could Duncan Rock possibly live up to all the hype?" Open ocean surge pushed me gently through some gaping channels, their walls festooned with fish-eating anemones, sponges, several varieties of seastars, brightly colored pink and yellow hydrocorals, orange brooding anemones, feather duster tube worms and dinner plate-sized mussels. I had been told that gorgonian corals were in the vicinity, although I had not found any. Beneath one massive boulder, I discovered a giant octopus den. As I inched my camera in closer to take a picture, the octopus fearlessly emerged from its den and spread out before me in the open. Schools of black rockfish swayed back and forth to the rhythm of the ocean swells. Fish seemed to be moving about everywhere. Monstrous-looking lingcod perched defiantly atop the reef boulders and seemed to eye me with suspicion. Inquisitive kelp greenlings and painted greenlings seemed to trail behind as we scoured the reef's surface looking for a decorated warbonnet. A distinctively coloured china rockfish boldly stared back at me as I took aim upon it with my camera. Due to its exposed location, Duncan Rock can only be accessed by boat. Considered an advanced dive, this site must be dived with a "live boat" standing by to pluck divers out of the water. Underwater visibility averages between 20 and 45 feet and can be unpredictable due to plankton matter stirred up by the seemingly relentless currents and ocean tides. Average diving depth ranges from 40 to 130 feet. While it is possible to go much deeper, it is unnecessary since the marine life is so bountiful at shallower depths. While there are myriad other thrilling dive sites in nearby Neah Bay, Duncan Rock towers high above them all. The sheer diversity of marine life here is unbeatable when combined with the fast lane sense of adventure this place inspires. Duncan Rock truly lives up to its mind-blowing notoriety. The author would like to thank Mike & Marianne Lever of the Nautilus Explorer for their assistance in diving at Duncan Rock. Tatoosh Island |
